(This section of the help file will
automatically be displayed the first time you start the LapMaster
program.)
The LapMaster program
must be installed on a Windows based computer (Win-XP, Vista, Win/7,Win-8.x or
Win-10).
Serial-to-USB cable:
Actual it is not just a cable, but an USB
device is hidden inside the cable.
However with current day Windows, the required driver are already available within Windows.
Note on Upgrade:
If you are doing an upgrade, you should always
remove the previous version first. You do this using the standard Windows “Control
panel” and “Remove program”.
This will retain your custom settings and data, so that they can be reused with
the upgraded program.
To reinstall completely from scratch, without
retaining any of your settings, history files, race results or any other customizing
you might have done, then also delete the “C:\LapMaster”
directory before reinstalling.
LapMaster:
To install the software, simply click on the
“LapMasterSetup3.xx” program on the LapMaster install
CD or supplied USB stick.
Alternatively download the latest version from www.LapMaster.dk
A shortcut to the LapMaster
program is automatically placed on the “Desktop” and in the “All Programs”
list.
The next step is to connect your hardware (see
below), and then customize your settings for LapMaster
so that it will suit your needs the best.
During the customization process, LapMaster creates a “c:\LapMaster\LapMaster.ini”
file that contains all your individual settings.
Maintenance:
LapMaster also maintains its list of lap
records in “C:\LapMaster\LapMasterRecords.ini”. You can edit or delete this
file if you want to correct track records after the fact.
All of your racing history is logged to
“C:\LapMaster\History” You might want to clear or archive the history maybe
once a year.
If you use the “Publish to WEB” facilities to
automatically publish race results, then a copy is also maintained on your harddisk in “C:\LapMaster\Results”.
You might want to prune that over time as well. To totally reset the result
index on the internet, delete the file
“C:\LapMaster\Results\LapMasterResultLink”, and the next time you upload a
result, it will start on a fresh new index list.
Before you use the LapMaster
program for the first time, you must set it up to match you race track. This is
done in two parts, first the program setup and then the track setup.
Program setup:
1.
Start
the program, I.E. by double clicking on the LapMaster
shortcut. When it loads, you will start in the Main
display
2.
First
select the Race Setup button to enter the race
setup menu.
3.
Then
select the Program Setup button to enter the
program setup.
4.
Select
the COM port that you have connected the LapTimer-II
device to or simple press “Search” to let the program find the COM port.
The “Search” assumes that you have a connected a LapMaster
device and that it are powered on. Otherwise it will not be able to find it.
If you already know on which COM port you connected the LapMaster
unit, you can set it manually.
If you manually select “(None)” you will be able to run LapMaster
in simulation mode without the hardware.
(Note: Connecting the USB cable to a
different USB port on your computer is most likely going to assign a new COM
port the device.)
5.
Next
you should select the language you want. Press the “Change” button, open the
directory appropriate directory, and then select the “Dictionary” file.
6.
If
you change either the COM port or the Language, the program will issue a
message that it will restart. Just press ok and reload the program again.
Track setup:
After a program restart you will again find
yourself in the main display.
1.
You
must again enter the Race Setup
2.
Select
the Track Setup button to enter the track setup.
3.
Fill
out the information about you track, the length, the colour and rotation scheme
etc.
Use the “Help” if you need guidance on any of the track setup information.
You are now
ready to use the program. See the section “Running a race”
on how to use the program.
The LapMaster program
uses the service of the LapMaster hardware. This
comes in a 4-lane and an 8-lane version.
Inside the unit are 1 or 2 computer boards (4- or 8–lanes) and also a small
radio receiver for the wireless remote control unit.
Computer connection:
The LapMaster
hardware has a RS-232 (Serial) port. This can connect directly to a computer
that has a serial port. However this has become rare. Modern computers use the
much more versatile USB ports. To connect to an USB port, you need to use a
Serial-to-USB converter. One has been supplied with the hardware.
Dead-strip:
A dead-strip is a small section of track (~20
cm) with the electric power rails isolated from the rest of the track. This
part of the track carries no power and the cars can only “roll” over it, thus
the term dead-strip. You should make the isolation between the power rails long
enough that the guide braid cannot make contact on both the power rails and the
dead-strip at the same time.
The dead-strip is connected using the kind of
multi-wire cables also used as computer LAN cables. Each has 4 pair of wires.
Each pair consists of a solid colour and a white with a stripe in the same
colour as the solid. The pair has been clearly marked as to what lane, and also
the solid colour cable must go to the right side of the track. (As seen from
above in driving direction. This is also known as the plus side of the power).
It is very important that the polarity is correct. The dead-strip is powered to
make sure we can count even if the car stops on the counter. However when the
car crosses at speed, it act like a generator and actual supplies voltage to
the dead-strip. When connected correctly this voltage adds to the bias voltage,
make it easier to count. If the dead-strip wires are reversed it will
counteract, making it harder to count.
P.S: This assumes that you use the international standard of
“plus-to-the-right” for the track wiring. If that is not the case, the
dead-strip wires must also be reversed.
The LapMaster
delivery includes 2 or 4 LAN-cable connector blocks. This allows you to extend
the length of the wires from the LapMaster box to
your dead-strip very easy with standard computer LAN-cables. These cables are
cheap, easy to get hold of and comes in virtual any length.
The dead-strip will not function if your track
is wired for reverse driving unless you reverse the dead-strip wires as well.
Note: If you use a voltmeter to measure
the bias voltage on the dead-strip, you should find between 3-6 Volts with plus
to the left. Maybe this will seem
strange to you, but think on a 2 battery flashlight. To add voltage you need to
have plus on one battery touch minus of the other. If you reverse one battery,
the flashlight will not work.
IR-Sensors:
To use infra-red sensors with LapMaster, you need an external detector/amplifier.
For a description on the IR-sensor system, see IR sensor for LapMaster.pdf
Powering the LapMaster unit:
The LapMaster unit
comes with 2 universal wall-plug type power supplies.
One supply 12 Volt to the computer boards, the other 5 V for the deadstrip.
The universal power supply runs equally well on
110 or 240 Volt, 50 or 60 Hz.
Track power:
LapMaster comes with 8 or 4 output power
relays. You can wire LapMaster to control everything from
just the #1 relay, or you can use 1 relay per lane (Default).
1 relay per lane is preferred, as it allows LapMaster to control each lane individually. E.g. if no
driver is assigned to a lane, then there will be no power on the lane either.
If you decide to go with a single relay only,
you need to configure this in the Track Setup
External relays and
lash back relays:
|
The relays on the LapMaster
board have a maximum rating of 15 Amp. This is usual not enough for a commercial
grade racetrack. In that case you must provide external high power relays. Existing tracks have these already, otherwise
it is recommended to use automobile 75 Amp/12 volt relays similar to these. |
|
When you use external relays it is very
important that you fit them with lash back diodes.
A diode only conducts current in one
direction. It therefore has one end marked with a ring around it. For this
application you need to have the marked end point toward the positive relay
supply when the relay is engaged. Then when power is removed the spike will
be of opposite polarity, and is quickly dissipated through the diode before
it can do any damage. Many types of diodes can be used. The most
common is a 50 Volt/1Amp type called 1N4001. Usual your LapMaster
package includes a set of suitable diodes for your convenience. |
Fuses:
At any rate it is definitely recommended to use
fuses. A 10 Amp would be suitable for all but the most power hungry cars like
Opens or Eurosport, where you might go for 20 or 40
Amp.
Power like this is no joking matter. Use fuses
or risk fire or damage to track/wiring/LapMaster/Controllers
or your power supply.
When a short circuit happens (and they will,
e.g. when someone hooks the controller up wrong), then something has to give.
It better be a 25 cent fuse than your 500 USD controller or LapMaster
or worse. And even if your power supplies say’s 12 Volt @5 Amp, this doesn’t
prevent it from supplying a much higher current. It just won’t be at 12 Volt,
but it could still easily burn a 10 Amp fuse.
This wiring diagram
might help you hook up all the wires correctly:
Note that the middle screw terminal is the
common wire.
When the relay is unpowered it is connected to
the right screw terminal, and when the relay is powered it is connected to the
left.
You would normally use the left and the middle
screw terminal.
However if you want your system so that it has
power when the computer and LapMaster is off, then
use middle and right terminal.
You will then need to go into Track Setup and set the “Reverse relay connection”
for the system to function.
P.S: Do not use
excessive force when tightening the screw terminals. Excessive force has been
known to break the screw terminals connection to the printed circuit board.